The Chester Arms
Bedford Road
Chicheley
MK16 9JE

01234 391214

date visited: November, 2011

type: pub/restaurant

for – fresh fish, flavoursome food, some interesting menu items

against – poor heating on a cool evening, shortage of serving staff, mediocre wine list, poor selection of beers

 
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Just outside of MK on the Newport Pagnell to Bedford road, The Chester Arms is a pub / restaurant that was once renowned for its fish dishes. This reputation had faded in recent years, but a change in management provided a good excuse to revisit. And I'm glad I did.

On walking into the bar it didn't take long to decide which beer to drink. They only have one beer on hand pump. Greene King IPA. Although I have to say this was a very well kept pint. It took a little longer to actually order since there wasn't anyone behind the bar. During weekdays they only have two people working - the chef and one guy who does bar and table service - so don't expect instant attention.

A quiet evening, I was offered a choice of tables but it was suggested that I take the one in front of the bar since it had a radiator. A good choice since the room was not very warm on this late November evening.

Not a great start, but the food improved the evening. The menu is up market pub bistro fare. A good selection of starters, with a few interesting looking entries. Mains have a predominance of steaks, 28 day dry aged, with a few other meat dishes but with the addition of three fish dishes. More on this later. A good dessert selection, once again with a few interesting items.

I started with creamed garlic mushrooms on chargrilled brioche. A simple dish but executed very well.

But it was the fish I came here for. And I wasn't disappointed. The owners have eschewed the large fish delivery companies and use a small outfit with frequent deliveries from Cornwall day boats. Turbot, Dover sole and plaice were on the menu this evening. Turbot is one of my favourite fish, and not something seen on local menus very often. Served on a bed of crushed potatoes and green beans with a light grain mustard sauce, it was very good. And very fresh. They understand that you don't need to do too much to fresh fish.

For dessert I had an Irish coffee creme brulee which was one of the best flavoured brulee I have ever had.

The wine list could be better. I had an un-oaked Aussie chardonnay which was merely OK.

I think I need to visit on a weekend to see how they handle busier evenings, but this was a good start, on the food front at least.