Just outside of MK
on the Newport Pagnell to Bedford road, The Chester Arms is a pub /
restaurant that was once renowned
for its fish dishes. This reputation had faded in recent years, but a
change in management provided a good excuse to revisit. And I'm glad I
did.
On walking into the bar it didn't take long to decide
which beer to drink. They only have one beer on hand pump. Greene King
IPA. Although I have to say this was a very well kept pint. It took a little longer to actually order since there wasn't anyone
behind the bar. During weekdays they only have two people working - the
chef and one guy who does bar and table service - so don't expect instant
attention.
A quiet evening, I was offered a choice of tables but it
was suggested that I take the one in front of the bar since it had a
radiator. A good choice since the room was not very warm on this late
November evening.
Not a great start, but the food improved the evening.
The menu is up market pub bistro fare. A good selection of starters, with
a few interesting looking entries. Mains have a predominance of steaks, 28
day dry aged, with a few other meat dishes but with the addition of three
fish dishes. More on this later. A good dessert selection, once again with
a few interesting items.
I started with creamed garlic mushrooms on chargrilled
brioche. A simple dish but executed very well.
But it was the fish I came here for. And I wasn't
disappointed. The owners have eschewed the large fish delivery companies
and use a small outfit with frequent deliveries from Cornwall day boats.
Turbot, Dover sole and plaice were on the menu this evening. Turbot is one
of my favourite fish, and not something seen on local menus very often.
Served on a bed of crushed potatoes and green beans with a light grain
mustard sauce, it was very good. And very fresh. They understand that you
don't need to do too much to fresh fish.
For dessert I had an Irish coffee creme brulee which was
one of the best flavoured brulee I have ever had.
The wine list could be better. I had an un-oaked Aussie
chardonnay which was merely OK.
I think I need to visit on a weekend to see how they
handle busier evenings, but this was a good start, on the food front at
least.