Visit 1:

The Swan at Salford is set in a village pub a couple of miles outside MK. The interior is in a very modern style – don’t expect an Olde Worlde village pub atmosphere. There is relatively small bar area at the front with a couple of hand pumped beers geared more to couples and small groups. This is not a pub for an evening drinking with mates but primarily a gastro pub with the emphasis very much on eating. 

The food is relaxed, well prepared, if a little unchallenging, with a number of plates available for sharing amongst the table. A mixed charcuterie board kept us happy while we decided on the meals.

My teenage children took advantage of being able to have something a little simpler than the fare I normally serve at home at the weekends, both choosing fishcakes, which were well prepared, nice and crisp on the outside with a high fish content. My wife and I shared a Cote de Boeuf – something we had done a few weeks earlier at John Torode’s Smiths of Smithfield restaurant. The dish here was better and substantially cheaper than the London version. Well aged beef and cooked medium rare as we had asked. It always amazes me how few places can cook beef properly. This is definitely one that can.

Desserts are all standard for this kind restaurant and competently produced. 

The wine list is intelligently put together with a good balance of New World wines together with more traditional European wines. One criticism, which could be levelled at a number of local restaurants, is that New World means Australia and New Zealand. South Africa and South America are producing some excellent wines these days that don't make it onto local wine lists. We had a very good Chateau Beaumont 1999, Cru Bourgeois, Haut-Médoc which at £32 was not overpriced given the quality.

Service was attentive without being pushy and I liked the kitchen being open to view through a large pane of glass where you can watch the (very young!) kitchen staff  buzzing over your meal. Overall, this is well produced gastro-pub fare - a pleasant meal and a lively atmosphere combined to make this a place to recommend for simple dining and a relaxed, informal evening out. 

But: During our meal we could smell something burning. After looking around we found it be my daughter’s hair! She was seated along the wall where the recess behind the bench seating had candles lit for a subtle lighting effect. She had leaned her head back and her hair started to singe in the flames. Fortunately she doesn't put flammable hair treatment on otherwise the results could have been much more serious. We mentioned this to our waiter who brought the manager over. He showed suitable concern and promised that the candles would be removed.

Visit 2:

One Saturday evening the children both announced rather late they where going out with friends to eat. So not wanting to cook the food for 4 that I had in, my wife and I decided to give the Swan another try.

The first thing I checked was the concealed candles, which have now been replace by recessed spot lights - same effect, less danger!

We decided to share a charcouterie board again instead since none of the appetisers grabbed us. A good selection of cold meats, spoiled by the bread, which had obviously been cut up at the start of service and was by now getting a little dry around the edges.

Two main courses of belly pork with chickpeas in a harissa sauce was a very tasty combination. I think I'll give this a try at home. The pork, which had a nice crisp piece of crackling on top, was a little dry on the outside, with layers of fat in the middle; a sure sign that it was cooked too quickly at too high a temperature. Cooked very slowly in a low oven, belly pork fat melts into the meat giving a texture that can be cut with a spoon. This wasn't. Unfortunate.

My dessert of creme brulee was perfect. Soft creamy vanilla custard with just the right amount of caremelised sugar over the top. It's easy to overcook the custard making it too firm. They got this just right.

We had a bottle of Brunello di Montalcino, at £40. A little harsh at first, it opened up OK. The Beaumont is better and cheaper.

A good selection of music - I hadn't heard Joe Jackson or Talking Heads in ages. The average age of the clientele this evening was closer to my age than the youngsters present last time I visited. Perhaps they tailor the music to the customer's ages. It worked.

Some other Buts: The wine had been opened at the bar before presentation. Are they afraid that their staff aren't capable of opening a bottle at the table? A table for two this time had a large candle, vase and flower, salt and pepper, cutlery jar, oil and vinegar. Not much room left for food..... We were asked if the food was OK on 5 separate occasions. Do they know something about the kitchen that we don't? Is strawberry cheesecake in March seasonal?

Overall, though, still a good evening. One of the better pub meals in the area.